www.econorun.co.za

The Econorun route map is a roll of instructions and needs to be fitted in a sealed container so that the competitor can easily operate the route instructions while riding.

Also see the Econorun route map layout

Making your own map box

Notes:
The route map roll’s width across is approximately 146mm so you need to leave space of about +5mm on each side of the roll for free movement.

The thickness of the complete map roll when fully rolled up depends on the amount of instructions given over the 2 days, but a 70-80mm deep box should keep 1 day’s map roll. Making the box deeper, wider or longer depends on what is comfortable for you on the bike. But the boxt must at least take one day’s full map (first start to final finish) as there is no time to assemble the map when competing during the day.

Materials – to build a map box that can hold 1 day’s map roll:

This route map box’s bottom will serve as a see through area to read the map, in other words the tin will be placed upside down on the bike.

• Plastic food tin of approximately (larger =better) 175mm (Wide) x 280mm (High) x 70mm (Deep), with a clear plastic bottom.
• PVC electrical pipe (about 2 x 200mm) to make a top and bottom scroll bar.
• 4 PCV pipe joints to prevent the scroll bars from sliding out.
• Wood rounds (8mm types) that will support the map in the middle when it is scrolled.

• Good plastic glue and if you have it, PVC welding glue.
• 2 x elastic bands. Also keep a few spare in your pocket in case they break.
• NOTE. You need quick access to your tank at competition fuel stops. So work out a way to easily loosen and fasten the route box if you’re going to place it over your bike’s tank. A piece of paper to join the top and bottom parts of the map to the pvc pipe.
• Clear cello tape (the wide type).
• Highlighter pens to mark changes in the route e.g. right turns
• Some way of fastening the route box on your bike. Longish luggage hook straps + a large car sponge for the map box to rest on should work ok.

Assembly:

• To fit the PVC scroll bars: Measure and drill 4 holes big enough to fit the PVC pipes through with free movement. These holes should be in the centre of the box’s width and the same distance from the top end and bottom end. Remember each scroll bar needs to hold the map when fully rolled up so there needs to be enough space for free movement around its axel to hold the fully rolled up map. NOTE plastic tends to crack so don’t force the drill. A variable speed drill or drill press works better. Using a carpet knife also tends to crack the plastic if not careful.

• Two wooden rounds is needed to support the map when it scrolled and make it clear to read as it passes from the top scroll bar to the bottom bar. To fit the two support wooden rounds, make 2 holes on each side of the box. These holes should be about about 1/3 from top and the bottom of the box. Leave about 2-4mm from the closed end of the box to allow the map free movement. Make sure you fit them far enough from the scroll bars not to obstruct your map when fully rolled up.

• Cut 2 pieces of pvc pipe. Leave enough length for the ends to stick out to fit the pvc joints over and still having free movement on the scroll bars.
• Cut a wide slit in the pvc scroll bars’ centre on both sides. This will allow fastening the route map to each scroll bar.
• Fit and glue to wood rounds.

• Insert the pvc scroll bars. Fit the PVC joints at the end. test for movement. Glue.
• Assemble route map rolls. Then tape a lip using a piece of paper on the top and bottom of the map that is can fit through the scroll bar slits. Tape the map to the slit. Roll it up and down a few times to make sure it does not stick. (Remember to take stationary with you in case your map tears, or to assemble day 2.)
• Fit the elastic bands over each side of the scroll bars to give the map tension. Without tension your map scroll will unwind when riding.